Being as how I had a day’s layover here in Beijing before catching my train up to Mongolia, Meg and Bryan were kind enough to devote much of their day to showing me around town and generally making sure I didn’t get myself arrested/sold into slavery/drafted into a boy band. Anyway, we decided to take a bit of a whirlwind tour of the city, taking in the various and sundry sights to be seen. Though both of them maintain that putting me up is no trouble at all and they rarely get to entertain friends from back West, I suspect that they also don’t want the most unenviable task of explaining to my sister how I was shanghaied/abducted by pirates/enlisted in the French Foreign Legion (which would be a bit of a trick, since I’m fairly certain that France hasn’t technically had a legion of any sort, foreign or otherwise since at least 1940). At any rate, I am most grateful to them (my hosts that is, not the French Foreign Legion; they never did a thing for me even after I went all the way to
After a most refreshing thirteen hour night’s sleep (which sounds like a bit much, but after running the numbers, I believe it was actually about the first time I’d really slept in the better part of a fortnight) we set out for Peking University, where we mingled with the students, saw much of the campus, and I engaged once more in an epic, yet ultimately unsuccessful battle to eat with chopsticks without looking like Stephen Hawking trying to do brain surgery with an angry marmot on a stick. Indeed, I have come to suspect that the nigh-universal fitness of the Chinese people has less to do with an active lifestyle than it does with the fact that eating too much with chopsticks is about as practical as excavating the Suez Canal with a spork.
Next, it as off to catch a bus, which often takes a bit of doing, since more often than not, the one you want is already insanely crowded, leaving you no choice but to through your lot in with a pack of fellow roving bus wranglers and then sort of tackle a passing bus as if it were some kind of diesel-operated caribou that had strayed away from its herd. While on the bus, my grim and alien appearance served to get me a little bit of extra personal space, allowing me to observe the ticket lady randomly yelling out the window at various people, cars, and urban donkeys.
At length, we arrived at the Old Imperial Palace, which is actually newer than the New Imperial Palace, though since that loveable old scamp the Emperor liked messing with people, the names got mixed up somewhere along the line (he also liked concubines, eunuchs, and those little golf cart trams that carry people around, though not necessarily in that order). Though normally a place of many artificial lakes, when we got to the palace, it was more of a place of many dried up, frozen over craters, which pretty much killed my notion of renting a little Imperial Paddleboat and feeding breadcrumbs to the assorted Imperial Ducks (The Imperial Duck, by the way, would be a fine name for the Emperor’s garage band, had he not been overthrown some 90 years prior to my visit). Next, we got to walk around the Imperial Palace Ruins, which were all that remained of a Western-style portion of the palace that as destroyed during one of the Opium Wars by an allied army of the British and French in 1860. I know this last bit for a fact because every single one of about 20 different signs there reminded me, word for word, of this unpleasant bit of history (And here are the ruins of the Emperor’s Royal Outhouse, which was destroyed by the allied British and French army in 1860). I wondered if I ought not try to make amends while I was there (Sorry about all the opium guys, and the sacking and pillaging and whatnot, my bad. Look, if any of y’all ever want to come over to
After this, we hit up a little coffee shop where they had posters of such great American movie stars as Gregory Peck, Che Guevera, and Richard Nixon, and where they played Kenny G Does Mulan nonstop for half an our straight before the record finally broke and they threw on some traditional Chinese Mariachi Christmas music. Next it was off to an ATM where, much like Sheetz, the government doesn’t charge you a service fee just to show that communism can be user-friendly after all once in a while. All the money here has Chairman Mao on it, and I am most pleased to report that, like George Washington, you can fold his head into a mushroom as well.
After that, it was off to a very nice Korean restaurant where everything was written in even more new and wonderful languages that I couldn’t understand, but where they do an excellent job of making beef stew and having one of those tables that’s also a burning pit of fire.